VINTAGE GLAMOUR: THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO CUSHION CUT DIAMONDS

Soft, romantic, and deceptively complex: The Cushion Cut.

It is the cut of royalty, romance, and history. Before the Round Brilliant dominated the 20th century, the "Old Mine Cut"—the ancestor of today’s Cushion Cut—was the global standard. Today, the Cushion Cut has reclaimed its throne as the top choice for brides seeking something softer than a Princess Cut but more distinctive than a Round.

But be warned: The term "Cushion Cut" is a catch-all for a massively varied family of diamonds. Two 1-carat Cushion cuts can look completely different—one might have broad, chunky flashes of light (antique style), while the other looks like crushed ice (modern style).

In this guide, we will decode the difference between "Chunky" and "Crushed Ice," explain why you should never buy a square cushion if you want it to look big, and reveal the specific L/W ratios that create the most flattering elongation on the finger.

ORIGINS: THE OLD MINE LEGACY

To understand the Cushion cut, you must understand its grandfather: the Old Mine Cut (OMC). In the 1700s and 1800s, diamonds were cut by hand in candlelight. Cutters didn't have the technology to create perfect round circles, so they followed the natural shape of the rough diamond crystal—which is fundamentally a squarish octahedron.

The result was a squarish shape with rounded corners, a high crown (top), and a deep pavilion (bottom). These stones sparkled with slow, romantic, checkerboard flashes rather than the rapid-fire disco-ball return of modern cuts. Today's "Cushion Cut" is a modernized version of this shape, refining the symmetry and polish while keeping that pillowy, soft outline.

THE 3 FLAVORS: CHUNKY VS. CRUSHED ICE

When you ask for a "Cushion Cut," you are actually asking for one of three distinct faceting patterns. GIA often labels them similarly, so you must know what to look for visually.

Visual Detail: Visual Size Compare

Visual Detail: Faceting Plot Guide

1. Cushion Brilliant (The "Chunky" Look)

This is the rarest and most sought-after modern style. It mimics the faceting of a Round Brilliant but in a pillow shape. The facets extend from the center (culet) all the way to the edge (girdle).
The Effect: Broad, distinct flashes of light. Bold fire.
The Code: Often just called "Cushion Brilliant" on a report (without the word "modified").

2. Cushion Modified Brilliant (The "Crushed Ice" Look)

This is the most common type (98% of the market). It has an extra row of facets added to the pavilion (bottom). This helps the cutter save weight from the rough crystal.
The Effect: Thousands of tiny, needle-like sparkles. It looks like crushed ice or sparkling water.
The Code: "Cushion Modified Brilliant."

3. Cushion Hybrid

A proprietary cutting style developed by certain houses to merge the two. It has the weight retention of a Modified cut but the larger facets of a Brilliant cut.

Left: The "Chunky" Brilliant look. Right: The "Crushed Ice" Modified look.

DEEP DIVE: THE FACETING PLOT TWIST

How do you know if a diamond is "Chunky" or "Crushed Ice" without seeing it? Look at the GIA Plot.

On the GIA certificate, look at the diagram of the pavilion (the bottom view of the stone).

• Chunky (Brilliant): You will see facets that look like a starburst, reaching from the center all the way to the edge. The lines are clean and distinct.
• Crushed Ice (Modified): You will see "extra" facets, often looking like a chaotic distinct second row of triangles near the girdle. These extra facets break up the light returning to the eye, chopping it into smaller sparkles.

Why do cutters do this? It's not for beauty—it's for weight. By adding those extra facets on the bottom, they can keep more carat weight in the "belly" of the stone. A 1.00ct Modified Cushion is often physically smaller (in width) than a 1.00ct Brilliant Cushion.

THE RATIO GUIDE: SQUARE VS. ELONGATED

Unlike Rounds, which are always 1:1, Cushions come in every ratio from perfect squares to long rectangles. The Length-to-Width (L/W) ratio defines the personality of the stone.

Elongated cushions (1.15+) are becoming the modern favorite for their finger-slimming effect.

ANTWERP INSIDER: THE "SPREADY" SECRET

Here is a secret most jewelers won't tell you: Carat weight is a lie.

You strictly pay for the weight, but you see the dimensions (length x width). Cushion cuts are notorious for being "bottom heavy." A poorly cut 2.00ct Cushion can look the same size as a 1.50ct Cushion because the extra ½ carat is hidden in the deep belly of the stone where it adds no visual size.

The Strategy: Buy "Spready" Stones.

We hunt for Cushion cuts with a depth percentage between 61% and 67%. Most Cushions on the market are 68% - 72% deep. By finding a shallower (but still brilliant) stone, you get a diamond that looks significantly larger for its carat weight. A 1.00ct "Spready" Cushion can cover the same surface area as a 1.20ct Deep Cushion, saving you thousands of euros.

THE COLOR TRAP: WHY CUSHIONS SHOW WARMTH

Cushion cuts are famous for their ability to hold color. This is why the vast majority of Fancy Yellow and Pink diamonds are cut into Cushions—the shape intensifies the hue.

However, when you are buying a white diamond, this works against you. A "J" color Round Brilliant might face up white because it blasts light out so efficiently. A "J" color Cushion will often look visibly yellow, especially in the "Crushed Ice" variety.

Recommendation:
For White Gold / Platinum: Stick to H Color or better.
For Yellow Gold: You can drop to I or J Color.

THE 4CS: CUSHION CUT EDITION

You know the standard 4Cs (Cut, Color, Clarity, Carat), but they apply differently to Cushion cuts than to Rounds. Here is how to prioritize your budget.

1. Color (Priority: HIGH)

As mentioned, Cushions hold color. If you are buying a stone above 1.50ct, color becomes even more concentrated at the tips.
Our Advice: Do not compromise here. Stick to G/H. If you go to I/J, verify the stone in person to ensure it doesn't look like "tea water."

2. Clarity (Priority: LOW)

Cushion cuts—especially the "Crushed Ice" variety—are excellent at hiding inclusions. The chaotic sparkles break up the view into the stone.
Our Advice: You can safely drop to SI1 or even a verified SI2. As long as it is "eye-clean," no one will know. Save your money here and spend it on Carat or Color.

3. Cut (Priority: CRITICAL but Tricky)

Remember, GIA does not grade Cut for Cushions. You are on your own.
Our Advice: Ignore the "Depth %" on the certificate if you can't see the stone, but if you have the specs, aim for 61-68%. Avoid "fisheyes" (seeing the girdle reflection in the center) and "nailheads" (dark center).

4. Carat (Priority: VISUAL)

Do not buy by weight; buy by dimension (mm). A 1.00ct Deep Cushion (5.3mm) looks smaller than a 0.90ct Shallow Cushion (5.8mm).
Our Advice: Ask your jeweler for the "spread" or "face-up size," not just the carat weight.

THE BEST SETTINGS FOR CUSHIONS

Because Cushions have soft, rounded corners, they are very easy to set and don't require sharp V-prongs like Princess cuts. This opens up a world of design possibilities.

1. The Halo (The Volume Booster)

Cushion cuts were practically made for halos. The rounded corners of the diamond match the curve of the halo perfectly, creating a seamless "pool of light" look. A double halo can turn a 0.50ct center stone into a ring that looks like a 2.00ct powerhouse.

2. The Solitaire (The Purist)

If you have a beautiful "Chunky" cushion, don't hide it. Set it in a simple 4-prong solitaire. Let the broad flashes of light speak for themselves.

3. The Three-Stone (The Royal)

This is the classic "Meghan Markle" style. A Cushion center flanked by Round brilliants or smaller Cushions creates a wall-to-wall sparkle effect that feels very regal.

CUSHION VS. THE WORLD

Cushion vs. Radiant

Both are mixed cuts (brilliant tops, step/mixed bottoms) with similar outlines. The difference is the corners. Radiants have cut corners (beveled), creating an octagon. Cushions have rounded corners. Radiants feel edgier and sharper; Cushions feel softer and more romantic.

Cushion vs. Round Brilliant

A Round diamond is maximizing brilliance (white light return). A Cushion cut is maximizing fire (colored light dispersion). If you love seeing rainbows of red, blue, and green flashing from your ring, the Cushion is your winner.

CASE STUDY: THE 1.00CT VS 0.90CT CUSHION

Let's look at a real-world shopping scenario from our Antwerp office.

The Verdict: Diamond Y is lighter, cheaper, AND looks bigger. Because it is elongated (1.15 ratio) and shallower (64% depth), it spans 6.1mm on the finger compared to only 5.4mm for the heavier stone. This is the power of knowing what to look for.

FAMOUS CUSHION CUT RINGS

The Cushion cut has become the de-facto choice for modern royalty and Hollywood elite. It strikes the perfect balance between the vintage weight of an heirloom and the brilliance of a modern stone.

1. Meghan Markle (The Duchess Effect)

When Prince Harry proposed, he chose a Cushion cut sourced from Botswana, flanked by two smaller rounds from Princess Diana's collection. This sparked a global explosion in Cushion cut demand. Her stone is an elongated cushion, estimated at 3-4 carats, with a ratio of approx 1.15.

2. Kim Kardashian (The Massive Upgrade)

Her famous 15-carat engagement ring from Kanye West (the "upgrade" ring) was a flawless Type IIa Cushion cut on a thin pave band. It solidified the trend of "huge stone, whisper-thin band" that defines modern engagement ring aesthetics.

3. Sofia Vergara (The Vintage Halo)

Her ring features a massive 7-carat Cushion cut surrounded by a delicate micro-pave halo, proving that even very large stones can look romantic and feminine with the right setting.

THE ZIZOV BUYING CHECKLIST

Don't walk into a jeweler unprepared. Print this list and use it to filter out 90% of the bad stones on the market.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS