THE GOLD STANDARD: 18K VS. 14K VS. PLATINUM - WHICH METAL IS RIGHT FOR YOU?

From the cool tones of Platinum to the warmth of 18k Yellow Gold.

Choosing a diamond is only half the battle. The metal that holds it is just as important. It frames the stone, touches your skin every day, and endures the wear and tear of life.

Many clients are confused by the numbers. Is 18k better than 14k? Is Platinum worth the extra cost? And why does White Gold need "dipping"?

In this guide, we strip away the marketing fluff and give you the metallurgical facts, so you can choose the metal that fits your lifestyle and aesthetic.

THE PURITY SCALE (KARATS EXPLAINED)

Pure gold (24k) is intensely yellow and very soft. You can bend a 24k coin with your teeth. That is why we mix it with other metals (alloys) to make it hard enough for jewelry.

Carat (ct) measures diamond weight. Karat (k) measures gold purity.

WHITE GOLD VS. PLATINUM (THE GREAT DEBATE)

They look identical when you buy them: shiny and silver. But after 12 months, they are completely different animals.

1. White Gold (The "Imposter")

The Science: White Gold does not exist in nature. It is Yellow Gold mixed with silver or palladium to bleach it, and then dipped in Rhodium (a platinum family metal) to make it bright white.
The Maintenance Trap: After 1-2 years, the Rhodium wears off (rubbed away by your skin/clothes). The ring will start to look "warm" or slightly yellow.
The Cost: You must take it to a jeweler to be re-dipped (polished and plated) every 18 months. This costs €50-€100 each time. Over a lifetime, White Gold is expensive.

Rhodium plating gives white gold its shine, but it is temporary.

2. Platinum (The "King")

The Science: Platinum is naturally white. It is 95% pure (stamped '950').
The Patina: Platinum does scratch (all metals do). But surprisingly, when platinum is scratched, the metal is not lost; it is merely displaced (pushed aside). Over time, it develops a satin finish called "Patina."
The Security: Because Platinum is dense and "sticky," it holds diamonds tighter than gold. Gold prongs wear down and become thin. Platinum prongs stay strong forever.

Gold loses metal when scratched. Platinum just moves it around. This is why Platinum lasts forever.

THE PRICE FLIP: WHY PLATINUM IS A STEAL

Historically, Platinum was always 2x the price of Gold. It is rarer (30x rarer than gold) and harder to work with.
The Current Anomaly: As of 2025-2026, Gold prices have skyrocketed due to global economic instability (banks buying bullion). Platinum prices have remained stable.

The Opportunity:
Right now, the price gap between an 18k Gold setting and a Platinum setting is smaller than ever. Sometimes, Platinum is even cheaper than 18k Gold. You are getting a technically superior, rarer metal for a bargain price.

ZIZOV INSIDER: THE "HEFT TEST" (HOW TO TELL AT HOME)

If you have a white metal ring and don't know if it's Gold or Platinum, you don't need a chemical kit. You need gravity.

The Experiment:
1. Hold the ring in your palm. bounce it gently.
2. Does it feel surprisingly heavy for its size? Like a dense pebble?
3. Result: If it feels heavy, it's Platinum. If it feels "normal" or light, it's likely 14k White Gold.

Why? Platinum is 60% denser than 14k Gold. The difference is unmistakable once you feel it.

DEEP DIVE: THE NICKEL ALLERGY EPIDEMIC

Why do so many women develop rashes from their wedding rings?

The Culprit: Nickel.
Nickel is a cheap, hard metal used to bleach yellow gold into white gold. It is the most common metal allergen in the world.
The Symptoms: Redness, itching, scaling, and even blisters exactly where the ring sits. It is contact dermatitis.

The Zizov "Safe Metal" Protocol

We adhere to the strict EU Nickel Directive (one of the strictest in the world).
1. Palladium White Gold: We use Palladium (a platinum family metal) as our bleaching agent. It is hypoallergenic and more durable than nickel.
2. Platinum 950: It is 95% pure platinum and 5% Ruthenium (usually). It is biologically inert. It will never cause a reaction.

Your skin absorbs what it touches. Choose inert metals.

Rose gold gets its pink hue from Copper. It has become a modern classic.

The Physics: Copper is one of the hardest metals. This makes 18k Rose Gold surprisingly durable, often harder than Yellow Gold.
The Aesthetics: It flatters pale skin by adding warmth, and it pops against dark skin. It is the most universal metal.
The Vintage Vibe: Rose gold often looks like an antique from the Victorian era, even if it was made yesterday.

ALLERGIES & SENSITIVITIES (THE NICKEL NASTY)

About 10-20% of women are allergic to Nickel. Symptoms include a red, itchy rash where the ring touches the finger.

The Problem: Cheap White Gold often uses Nickel as a bleaching agent because it is cheap.
The Zizov Standard: All our jewelry complies with strict EU Nickel directives (REACH). We use Palladium-based white gold (Nickel Free) or Platinum, which is naturally hypoallergenic and the safest choice for sensitive skin.

ZIZOV INSIDER: THE RHODIUM MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

Nobody tells you about the maintenance costs when you buy White Gold. Here is the reality:

• Every 12 Months: You will notice the bottom of the shank (palm side) turning yellow. This is where you grip things.
• Every 18-24 Months: The top prongs will start to yellow.
• The Fix: You must take it to a jeweler for "Polishing & Rhodium Plating." Cost: €50-€100. Time: 1 week.
• The Platinum Alternative: Platinum never turns yellow. It just gets dull (patina). A quick polish brings it back to new, with no chemicals required.

THE OTHERS: PALLADIUM & SILVER

Why don't we see these metals often in fine jewelry? Here is the truth.

1. Palladium (The "Lightweight" Platinum)

Palladium is in the Platinum family. It is naturally white and hypoallergenic.
Pros: It does not require Rhodium plating. It is cheaper than Platinum.
Cons: It is incredibly light (low density). It feels "cheap" or "plastic" to some clients compared to the heft of Platinum. It is also very brittle and hard to resize.

2. Sterling Silver (925) (The "Fashion" Metal)

Silver is for fashion jewelry, not engagement rings.
The Softness: Silver is extremely soft. It bends easily. If you set a diamond in silver, the prongs will eventually bend and you will lose the stone.
The Tarnish: Silver reacts with oxygen to turn black (tarnish). You have to polish it constantly.
Zizov Policy: We do not set diamonds in silver. The risk is too high.

DEEP DIVE: READING THE HALLMARKS

Every ring sold in Europe must legally carry a hallmark. This is your guarantee.

• 750: 18k Gold (75.0% pure).
• 585: 14k Gold (58.5% pure).
• 950: Platinum (95.0% pure).
• ZIZOV / ZV: Our Maker's Mark (Responsibility Mark).

If you buy a ring online and it has no stamp, return it immediately. It is likely fake.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS